Jumping on the (horse-drawn) burger-wagon…

I am extremely inconsistent when it comes to my ethical principals.  I am also known for sitting on the fence.  Hal Herzog (a fellow anthrozoologist whose book explores this issue in its very first chapter) calls people like me “the troubled middle” and explains that we see the world in shades of grey (no, not 50 shades of grey… that’s a different kind of book).

So, I have watched from my fence with fascination and a little delight for the last couple of days as the ‘horse burger’ story has exploded around me; anthrozoology in the news!  What a treat!  For my friends outside the UK, who probably haven’t been subject to the bombardment of comments and puns (to which I am now adding, so my apologies), read the full story here.

Although everyone and their mother has felt the need to write a commentary on why the British public has issues with eating horse, I feel the need to stick my meandering oar in.

Suffice to say, this blog neither advocates nor contests the morality of eating horse, but just so I don’t get accused of too much fence-sitting – though putting myself at risk of losing friends – I’m going to start by climbing down from my fence, temporarily, and stating that my personal moral standpoint is, it’s OK to eat a (dead) horse if you choose to.  I can imagine that there would be circumstances in which I would eat horse, though no such circumstances have yet arisen.   Also, I have no qualms in admitting, I wouldn’t eat a horse that I had a personal or emotional attachment to, or even one that someone I knew had a personal or emotional attachment to.  Yep, inconsistent – I told you so – but I’m OK with it; I don’t consider inconsistency equivalent to immorality.  I will slink back to the cover of my shades of grey when it comes to the consideration of how horses are kept prior to slaughter and the methods by which they are killed.  I’m sure my mixed ethics will raise their conflicted head again at some point, but I don’t want to get into that any further right now.

In case you missed this in the news, slaughtering horses for meat does happen in the UK, even thought we don’t (knowingly!) eat them here.  The Metro did this pretty diagram to demonstrate how many slaughtered horses are exported to Europe where it is more culturally palatable and shows the numbers of horses consumed in other cultures. No one has denied that the ‘outcry’ at the discovery of horse-meat in beef burgers is primarily a cultural one.

It’s worth noting at this stage that many of the concerns raised about ‘horse burgers’ stem from the incorrect labelling of products: as someone wrote to the Guardian, supermarkets may have been better off just writing, ‘May Contain Horse’ on the label and letting consumers decide their own standpoint on the issue.  As someone who spends far too long staring at food labels in supermarkets (before deciding just to have a veggie curry because it’s less stressful), I wasn’t particularly shocked to hear that not everything that goes into a Tesco Value Beefburger could be considered ‘beef’.  It says on the packet that beef only constitutes 66% of the actual burger;  I know, the rest is water, wheat flour and ‘beef fat’, but still, there’s no detail of which country it comes from or what part of the cow you’re eating; or even if ‘beef’ and ‘cow’ are necessarily synonyms.  So, acknowledging the labelling problem, I am going to stick with thinking about the cultural taboo attached to eating horse in the UK.

To their credit, the majority of media reports I’ve read have made it clear that there is no health risk associated with eating horse meat per se and that it is not illegal to sell or eat horse meat in the UK or Ireland.  However, Tesco’s official statement said:

“The safety and quality of our food is of the highest importance to Tesco. We will not tolerate any compromise in the quality of the food we sell. The presence of illegal meat in our products is extremely serious.”

Firstly, this suggests that selling horse meat is illegal – whoops – and secondly, that the inclusion of horse meat compromises the quality and/or safety of their burgers.  Many reports (such as this one) call the burgers ‘contaminated’ which means ‘to make impure or pollute’, another refers to them as  ‘adulterated’, which means ‘to render something poorer in quality by adding another substance, typically an inferior one’.  Although it is true that horse is not generally consumed in the UK because it has, over the past hundred or so years, become culturally taboo, it is interesting that this meat is now apparently also considered unsavoury, unpalatable, or disgust-worthy (I wonder how the French feel about that condemnation?).

I’ve often referred in academic work about the influential work of Mary Douglas who, in the 1960s, wrote about the concept of food taboos in society.  Many – dare I say most – cultures have certain animals that are not to be eaten, or only to be eaten under strict conditions.  Douglas suggested that species that don’t fit neatly into our cultural classification systems are designated as ‘out of place’ and become pollutants, ‘unclean’ species – so, back to categorisation again.  A classic example is the pig in Judaism and Islam (also relevant to the recent news, as traces of pork were also found in beef products; this has been treated as rather a secondary story, however).  In theory, the horse would fit into this model because it has in recent years reached an odd position of no longer being a farm or working animal, but not quite being a ‘full’ companion animal.  This would render horses taboo, though not because they are unclean: rather, because they are too clean, too ‘noble’ and too closely linked to humans to be consumed in the same way as other domesticates.  Yet conversely, the media reporting all suggests that we are physically disgusted with the idea of eating horse, as we are disgusted by the thought of other contaminants in our food, such as salmonella.

Are we, though?  I haven’t actually seen one comments section (from the few I could manage to trawl through this evening) that wasn’t dominated by people simply making horse puns or other jokes about the situation.  Others, like me, simply weren’t surprised and assumed that most cheap meat had unidentifiable animal parts in it.  So I think there’s more to it than the fact that we see horses as ‘friends, not food’; after all, rabbits are both cuddled and consumed in this country without significant difficulty.

The conclusion I’ve drawn, whilst writing this, is: most people simply haven’t thought about it.  We’ve not had to think about it in a long time, perhaps our whole lives.  Most of us (myself included, despite my food-label-obsession) are so far removed from the sourcing and processing of our meat that, if we eat it, we barely relate it to the species from which it purportedly comes.  Although there is an element of cultural distaste for horse meat, here and now, I don’t think this is the ingrained part of our psychology the press would have us believe.  I sense that we normally feel we have a handle on things in this country, because we can choose outdoor bred pork and free range chicken.  We are confused though, by the shake-up of another ethical problem that we might not have known existed until now.

It could, then, be enlightening to see the fallout from this story, although it has happened before without any apparent repercussions. Could it be that eating horse becomes culturally acceptable once again?  Given the amount of racehorses slaughtered each year, would purposeful consumption of them be less wasteful than current processes?  Should we just stick with improving the farming systems we already struggle with before bringing in another one?  Will this lead more people to think about what is in their food and where it comes from – could vegetarianism increase?  Should we stop exporting horses to Europe for their consumption?   With all this now on the table, sometimes it’s just easier to make a pun.


3 thoughts on “Jumping on the (horse-drawn) burger-wagon…

  1. Jenny says:

    Easier to make a pun, indeed. What a thought provoking situation. I wouldn’t beat yourself up too much about being in a place of greys on this. As you say, the industrial food complex is an incredibly muddled up, chaotic, and corrupt system, and unless one shuns it completely it is really challenging to be able to make a good decision anywhere inside it. But it sure is ridiculous that anyone would be buying meat that fails to properly identify what animal(s) it comes from. I do hope that situations such as these succeed in making consumers more analytical when making decisions about their food. I know that this has happened in the States thanks to various e coli outbreaks in our produce.

    The whole “horse as friend not food” argument is also fascinating. In my own experience I’ve found myself far more drawn to pigs’ personalities than horses’, and I’ve eaten some pigs that I knew. But I have to say that I’d still feel a bit queasy about eating horse meat, in part this is because of some nasty horse breath that I’ve smelled (absurd but true), and it’s also because of the little girl inside of me who ached all over while reading “Black Beauty.” But I’m quite sure that, if an ethically sound situation arose, I probably would eat horse.

  2. […] Horse meat.  I’ve been there and done that. (Written about it I mean, not consumed […]

  3. […] my last post about horse-meat, I concentrated on the cultural relationship people have with horses in this country and considered […]

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